Sunday morning August 14 began with our baguettes from the Taberna, the bakery where we came to be recognized (even waved to as we passed), then a walk to the Ciudadela, the Citadel of Pamplona, that is now a park. The fortress is small but welcoming with pathways and different levels to explore. It was a hot day so we found a shady spot under some trees to relax. The kids kicked around a soccer ball, and we let Pamplona soak in. Sunday is still a traditional day of rest there, so the markets and stores were closed. We cooked dinner at home and then walked to the Plaza Castillo for ice cream (open for the tourists, thankfully).
The food in Spain was somewhat challenging. You could call it the cheese, shellfish, and pork capital of the world (which is maybe why we couldn't find any synagogues to visit while there). Some of the local flavors were delicious - namely gazpacho and smoked salmon. The most common item, often viewed hanging from the ceiling in bars, is Jamon Iberian, or ham. There is a lot of charcuterie / meats available, chorizo sausages, and queso or cheese. Also seafood, mostly shellfish. A specialty of the north that we enjoyed very much are mushrooms, sautéed with olive oil (the olive oil in that region is delicious). Walking by the bars, you can see plates and plates of pintxos (pronounced “pinchos”) which is similar to tapas, but served on slices of bread and eaten with your hands (tapas is typically small plates of food you eat with silverware). They were delicious, and heavy. They could make a meal, but were really appetizers. Meals often were good but not great until we found a few restaurants that we loved and then frequented (Mi casa in the old City was one).Our favorite restaurant was in the most beautiful spot in Pamplona, the Rincon de Caballo Blanco (the restaurant was the Meson de Caballo Blanco), we practically became regulars there, ordering the same thing every time….a fresh smoked salmon tostada with salad, pickles, and dill. The kids loved the garlic bread and gazpacho there. We were hardly ever disappointed with the coffee – café con leche for me, and a“cortado” for Jordan which is an espresso with a little steamed milk.
Monday, August 15, turned out to be a bank holiday so once again everything was closed and we ventured out on our first daytrip from Pamplona. Our destination was La Rioja, the wine region southeast of Pamplona. We drove through Logrono, and stopped first at Elciego, where Frank Gehry was commissioned to build a special hotel in a Bedoga known as the City of Wine. This structure is akin to the Guggenheim. We unfortunately just missed the guided tour, so we settled for cheese, bread, chorizo, and wine in their shop. From there we drove through an area as lovely as Napa or Sonoma to a town called Haro, where many Bodegas or wineries operate. In the old town, we had some of the best mushrooms tapas at a bar, and found hot dogs for the kids. We spent the afternoon in Haro at a lovely little water park, complete with water slides that the kids loved. Once again it was reinforced that Spain makes smart investments in entertainment for kids and families right alongside adult destinations like wineries. The day felt balanced, satisfying all age groups. On our drive our of Haro, we stopped at some gorgeous wineries to buy a litte vino to take home.
The weather continued to be perfect, so the next day we headed to the beach in San Sebastian. Both Jordan and I had been there before (twenty years ago!!) and it was bigger than I remembered. It was also incredibly crowded, since most Spaniards vacation in August and San Sebastian is a popular destination and place where people have second homes. We walked around the old town a bit and then headed to the beach. It’s a gorgeous beach with the town surrounding it. The surf was small but very fun for the kids. They were shocked to see women without tops, and Jordan kept his eyes closed the whole time, I am sure. A note about European bathing suits: no one female wears anything but a bikini (and sometimes just the bottom). Regardless of size or age, people parade along the beach comfortably in their bikinis. I must say, I was impressed – not with what I saw, but with what it represents. I think Europeans have a better sense of self and more comfort with their bodies then we Americans do. Thankfully, I brought a bikini with me, so when in Rome….(no photos allowed, ha ha)
We left the beach and headed to the old city and the famous Cathedral that I remembered from my previous visit. I took the kids through the church and they quickly decided it was not interesting (a very different travel experience with three small kids...sightseeing is minimal), and so we headed to a bar for some pintxos and sangria (a necessity when traveling with three small kids). We then headed to a small fishing village about 20 minutes away called Getaria for dinner. The drive was specatular….like the coastal highway in California, with small villages connected and beautiful beaches. We had dinner outside on the hillside overlooking the port and the beach. It was charmingly perfect and the fish was delicious.
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